I always pull my yarn tight after the first two stitches on the new needle.
Something else you can try is to knit some of the stitches from the next needle onto the current needle, so the switch between needles occurs at a different spot. Since this is a little hard to describe, I’ll give you an example. If you’re using 3 needles with 9 stitches on each, let’s call them needles A, B, and C, and your working needle, D. Every few rows, after knitting the 9 stitches from needle A onto the working needle, D, knit 3 stitches from needle B onto needle D, so needle D has 12 stitches, needle B has 6 stitches, and needle C has 9 stitches. Then, knit the 6 stitches from needle B onto needle A and knit 3 stitches from needle C onto needle A. Now, needle D has 12 stitches, needle A has nine stitches, and needle C has 6 stitches. Knit the rest of the stitches from needle C onto needle B and knit 3 of the stitches from needle D onto needle B. Now, all of your needles have the same number of stitches again.
You could switch to circular needles if the piece will fit on them. Or you could turn the work inside out and knit it from the far end of the circle. This will help hold the stitches at the needle crossing points closer together.
Tug on the last two stitches before you switch needles and tug on the first two stitches on the needle after you switch. Also try to always start with a knit stitch at the beginning of a needle.
You only get ladders when you put them in. I watch how I work, and I don’t allow them to enter my work. Simple really. You ARE using circular needles, right? Why not? You don’t get ladders with circulars.
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I always pull my yarn tight after the first two stitches on the new needle.
Something else you can try is to knit some of the stitches from the next needle onto the current needle, so the switch between needles occurs at a different spot. Since this is a little hard to describe, I’ll give you an example. If you’re using 3 needles with 9 stitches on each, let’s call them needles A, B, and C, and your working needle, D. Every few rows, after knitting the 9 stitches from needle A onto the working needle, D, knit 3 stitches from needle B onto needle D, so needle D has 12 stitches, needle B has 6 stitches, and needle C has 9 stitches. Then, knit the 6 stitches from needle B onto needle A and knit 3 stitches from needle C onto needle A. Now, needle D has 12 stitches, needle A has nine stitches, and needle C has 6 stitches. Knit the rest of the stitches from needle C onto needle B and knit 3 of the stitches from needle D onto needle B. Now, all of your needles have the same number of stitches again.
You could switch to circular needles if the piece will fit on them. Or you could turn the work inside out and knit it from the far end of the circle. This will help hold the stitches at the needle crossing points closer together.
Tug on the last two stitches before you switch needles and tug on the first two stitches on the needle after you switch. Also try to always start with a knit stitch at the beginning of a needle.
You only get ladders when you put them in. I watch how I work, and I don’t allow them to enter my work. Simple really. You ARE using circular needles, right? Why not? You don’t get ladders with circulars.
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